Livorno

The world's most famous architectural accident — an 8-degree lean caused by soft ground on one side during construction in 1173. The Piazza dei Miracoli also contains the spectacular Baptistery and Camposanto cemetery.

The Renaissance capital of the world — Brunelleschi's Duomo, Michelangelo's David, the Uffizi Gallery and the Ponte Vecchio all within walking distance. The most art-per-square-kilometre of any city on Earth.

Five impossibly picturesque fishing villages clinging to cliffs above the Ligurian Sea — a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Vernazza is the most photogenic of the five, with a natural harbour and medieval tower.

Livorno's charming 'Little Venice' quarter — a network of canals, bridges and 17th-century buildings in the oldest part of the city. Genuinely pleasant if you're staying in port.

Livorno's best-known traditional trattoria — serving the classic cacciucco (rich spiced fish stew) that Livorno invented and considers its signature dish.

Canalside seafood restaurant in the Venezia Nuova quarter — fresh catch displayed on ice at the entrance, grilled simply with local olive oil.

Tiny lunch-only spot beloved by dockworkers and locals — the daily fish pasta changes with the market. Virtually no tourists.

Livorno's most celebrated seafood restaurant — whole grilled branzino and black cuttlefish risotto are the signature dishes. White tablecloths, serious wine list.

Livorno's 19th-century covered market — the most atmospheric food hall in Tuscany. Seafood, cheese, salumi, and the legendary 5 e cinque street food stall at the entrance.

Livorno's grand old café on the main piazza — marble counters, espresso machines from the 1950s, and the best aperitivo spread in the city.

Neighbourhood wine bar with 200+ Tuscan labels by the glass — Bolgheri Sassicaia, Brunello, and local Livorno coastal whites.

Classic Italian-American style bar near the port — port workers, sailors and cruise passengers all mix here. Very cheap, very Livornese.

Livorno's finest pasticceria — the Bongo cake (chocolate sponge with cream filling, invented here in 1964) and fresh cornetti are the things to order.

Old-school espresso bar in the heart of the market district — standing room only, very cheap, very fast.

The finest beach near Livorno — a rocky cove with crystal-clear Ligurian Sea water, pine trees down to the shore and a Belle Époque resort village.

The world's greatest Renaissance city reachable in 80 minutes by train — Duomo, Uffizi, Accademia (David), Ponte Vecchio and Oltrarno all walkable in a single full day.

Fifteen minutes by train from Livorno — the Leaning Tower, Baptistery and Camposanto in the Piazza dei Miracoli form one of the most recognisable streetscapes on Earth.

Five UNESCO villages strung across dramatic cliffs above the sea — reachable in 60 minutes by train. Walk the coastal trail between Vernazza and Monterosso for the finest views.

The Bolgheri wine zone 60km south of Livorno produces Sassicaia and Ornellaia — two of Italy's most celebrated Super Tuscans. A private tasting with the estate's sommelier is extraordinary.

The best-preserved Renaissance walled city in Europe — the 4km perimeter wall is wide enough for a tree-lined promenade with cyclists. Puccini's birthplace, perfectly preserved medieval piazzas.