Marseille

The ancient heart of Marseille — a working fishing harbour framed by 17th-century fortifications and lined with café terrasses. Fishermen sell the morning's catch directly from their boats each morning until it runs out.

Marseille's landmark contemporary museum occupies a striking black lattice cube on the waterfront, connected by a footbridge to the 16th-century Fort Saint-Jean. Permanent collections cover 5,000 years of Mediterranean civilisation.

Marseille's guardian basilica crowns the city's highest hill (162m), visible from every direction. The gilded Madonna on top watches over the city and its sailors — the ex-votos inside from shipwreck survivors are genuinely moving.

The most accessible entry point to the Calanques — a dramatic fjord-like inlet carved from white limestone with emerald-turquoise water. The national park stretches 20km east of Marseille along the most spectacular coastline in France.

The definitive bouillabaisse in the city that invented it, served in the Vallon des Auffes — a tiny intact fishing hamlet beneath the motorway. The ritual: rich saffron broth first, then fish and rouille-spread croutons.

Legendary Corniche address for bouillabaisse and grilled fish, with panoramic terrace views over the Frioul islands. One of the oldest restaurants on the seafront promenade.

Brasserie-bar on the first floor of the Hôtel Bellevue overlooking the Vieux-Port — a Marseille institution for over a century. Jazz concerts on Thursday evenings.

Marseille's most atmospheric street market in the Noailles neighbourhood — known as 'the belly of Marseille'. North African spice stalls, fresh harissa, pastilla ingredients and the city's best socca (chickpea pancake).

Marseille's bohemian hub — a tree-lined square surrounded by street art, record shops and a dense cluster of restaurants covering every cuisine. The evening terrace scene runs until late.

Marseille's longest-running waterfront club in a converted tram depot on the Quai de Rive Neuve. Three rooms spanning house, electro and world music.

The most famous bar on the Vieux-Port — backdrop for Marcel Pagnol's classic Marseille films. Dark wood panelling, pétanque memorabilia and very cheap pastis.

The terrace bar above La Caravelle brasserie — the best sunset drink in Marseille, watching the light turn gold across the Vieux-Port and Fort Saint-Nicolas.

Old-school coffee roaster in the Noailles market district, roasting beans in the window since 1945. Exceptional single-origin espresso and café filtré.

The oldest bakery in France (founded 1781) still operating from its original address near the Abbaye Saint-Victor. Famous for navettes — orange-blossom-flavoured boat-shaped biscuits that are the edible symbol of Marseille.

The closest sandy beach to central Marseille — a city beach with golden sand, volleyball nets and a beach club. The setting with the Château d'If visible offshore is extraordinary.

The island fortress immortalised by Alexandre Dumas as the prison of Edmond Dantès in The Count of Monte Cristo. A 20-minute ferry from the Vieux-Port drops you at this extraordinary 16th-century royal fortress.

The most spectacular way to see the Calanques — a 3-hour boat tour skimming past dramatic white limestone cliffs and stopping in emerald coves for swimming. The most popular excursion in Marseille.

One of France's most elegant cities — 30 minutes from Marseille and a complete contrast. Tree-lined Cours Mirabeau, 18th-century fountains, Cézanne's studio and the finest market in Provence (Tue, Thu, Sat morning).

The charming port village of Cassis sits at the eastern end of the Calanques — a 35-minute drive from Marseille. Walk 20 minutes from the village into Calanque de Port-Miou for jaw-dropping scenery.

The Le Panier district is Marseille's oldest neighbourhood — a warren of steep lanes, street art and artisan workshops on the hillside above the Vieux-Port. A 2-hour guided walk covers the quarter's 2,600-year history.