Martinique

The most dramatic ghost town in the Caribbean — 30,000 people were killed in minutes when Mount Pelée erupted in 1902, and the ruins of theatres, cathedrals and rum distilleries still stand in the volcanic jungle above the sea.

One of the world's most dangerous active volcanoes — the 1,397m summit hike passes through cloud forest and volcanic moonscape to the crater rim, with extraordinary views across Martinique on clear days.

The most extraordinary library in the French Caribbean — a polychrome cast-iron and glass Art Nouveau building designed in 1886 in Paris, shipped in pieces and assembled in Fort-de-France. Victor Schoelcher abolished slavery in the French colonies.

The 17th-century French military fortification guarding the entrance to Fort-de-France Bay — still an active military base with portions open to the public, with panoramic views of the harbour.

Martinique's best-loved Creole restaurant — accras de morue (cod fritters), colombo de poulet (chicken curry), and the definitive boudin créole (black pudding with chilli and spring onion).

Beachfront restaurant at Les Trois-Îlets — grilled whole fish, lobster prepared Creole style, and the finest view of Fort-de-France Bay from the south shore.

Lunch in a restored 18th-century sugar plantation — the Creole tasting menu served on the veranda of a banana estate reflects Martinique's culinary heritage from Africa, France and the indigenous Carib people.

French-Creole restaurant beloved by Fort-de-France professionals — the prix fixe lunch (€14) includes an accras starter, grilled fish with rice and pois d'angole, and a rum-based dessert.

The most atmospheric covered market in the French Caribbean — spice stalls piled with colombo powder, turmeric and vanilla pods, women in madras cloth selling accras from baskets, and the best fresh fruit juice stand in Martinique.

Fort-de-France's premier agricole rum bar — 100+ bottles of Martinique rhum agricole (made from fresh sugarcane juice, unlike the molasses rums of most Caribbean islands), served neat or in classic cocktails.

Outdoor bar along the Fort-de-France seafront — Ti Punch cocktails at local prices, dominoes games and the animated social life of the city on the waterfront promenade.

Beach-side sunset bar at Anse Mitan — the après-plage (after-beach) tradition of Martinique, with rum punches, zouk music and the skyline of Fort-de-France glowing across the bay.

Martinique's only dedicated cacao and chocolate café — the island grows Trinitario cacao beans, and this café roasts and grinds them fresh for hot chocolate, espresso drinks and chocolate confections.

Beach café at Anse Mitan — fresh fruit juices (passion fruit, guava, soursop), croissants and Caribbean breakfast plates.

The finest beach in Martinique and one of the best in the entire Caribbean — 1km of white sand under coconut palms with calm, clear turquoise water in the sheltered south bay.

Accessible by regular ferry from Fort-de-France (15 min, €5 return) — a pleasant beach on the south shore of the bay with calm water and a village of beach bars and restaurants directly behind.

A perfectly circular cove of black volcanic sand with crystal-clear water for snorkelling — right next to the white-sand Anse Dufour beach, accessible by a short path along the cliff.

The Habitation Clément estate — a stunning 18th-century plantation converted into a rum museum, contemporary art gallery and working distillery. The rhum agricole production process (fresh-pressed sugarcane, not molasses) is extraordinary.

The underwater grass meadow off Anse Dufour and Anse Noir is home to a resident population of green sea turtles who feed here daily — the most reliable turtle snorkelling in the Eastern Caribbean.

The Route de la Trace crosses Martinique's lush volcanic interior — a 30km mountain road through UNESCO-listed rainforest, past the Balata Garden (€12) and the Chapelle du Balata, with Mount Pelée dominating the horizon.