Naples

The most remarkable archaeological site in Europe — a complete Roman city frozen in time by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. Streets, homes, frescoes, bakeries and bodies preserved in volcanic ash for nearly 2,000 years.

One of the great museums of the ancient world, holding the finest collection of Roman artefacts from Pompeii and Herculaneum — statues, mosaics, frescoes and the famous Secret Cabinet of erotic art.

The arrow-straight ancient Roman road that cuts the old city of Naples in half — lined with baroque churches, pizza shops, artisan workshops and street markets. Walking it is the single best free thing to do in the city.

Naples' oldest castle, built on a tiny island in the harbour, with medieval towers, sea-view battlements and a free rooftop terrace giving the most spectacular panorama of Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples.

The most famous pizzeria in the world — founded in 1870 and serving only two options: Margherita or Marinara. The Neapolitan pizza standard against which everything else is measured.

A legendary pizzeria on Via dei Tribunali in the heart of the old city, run by the Sorbillo family since 1935. Offers the full range of Neapolitan toppings with an exceptionally chewy, blistered crust.

A legendary lunchtime trattoria in the Quartieri Spagnoli where singing waiters, theatrical service and communal tables make for an unforgettable Neapolitan experience. Three courses for under €12.

A small, authentic Neapolitan osteria in the Quartieri Spagnoli serving traditional dishes rarely found in tourist restaurants — pasta e fagioli, fried courgette flowers, and slow-cooked ragù.

Naples' most historic café, open since 1860 on Piazza del Plebiscito opposite the Royal Palace. Famous for its ornate Belle Époque interior, extraordinary pastries and the city's most celebrated espresso.

The finest aperitivo bar in Naples — a narrow Chiaia wine bar where the evening ritual of Campari spritz and complimentary food spread is elevated to an art form. Beloved by Neapolitans and largely unknown to tourists.

An upmarket but welcoming bar on the elegant Piazza dei Martiri in the Chiaia neighbourhood, with pavement tables that offer the best people-watching in Naples' smartest district.

A no-frills neighbourhood bar deep in the Quartieri Spagnoli where Neapolitans actually drink — local prices, strong Negronis, and a street outside that comes alive on warm evenings.

One of the most talked-about espresso bars in Naples, famous for pre-sweetening the coffee with sugar inside the machine in the traditional Neapolitan style. Standing-only, fast, and extraordinary.

A historic Neapolitan pastry shop on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore in the old city, famous for the best sfogliatella in Naples — the shell-shaped ricotta-filled pastry that is the city's defining sweet.

A genuine Neapolitan lido experience on the Posillipo promontory — locals spend entire days here on sunbeds, sharing food and socialising, with a sweeping view of Vesuvius across the bay.

The ultimate Naples excursion — hike to the rim of an active volcano in the morning, then descend to walk the streets of a city it destroyed 2,000 years ago. An extraordinary pairing of natural drama and ancient history.

A ferry ride to the most glamorous island in the Mediterranean — dramatic limestone cliffs, the Blue Grotto sea cave, the hilltop town of Anacapri, and the ruins of Emperor Tiberius's clifftop palace.

A drive along the SS163 coastal road — one of the most dramatically beautiful roads in the world, winding past cliff-hanging villages, turquoise coves and terraced lemon groves to the medieval town of Amalfi.

The smaller, better-preserved neighbour of Pompeii — entombed by pyroclastic flow rather than ash, meaning wooden furniture, wall paintings and food stalls survived intact. Half the visitors, twice the archaeological detail.

A guided three-hour walk through the old city eating fried pizza, cuoppo (fried seafood cone), taralli biscuits, sfogliatella and fresh mozzarella at street stalls and market vendors. The best possible introduction to Neapolitan food culture.