Nice & Côte d'Azur

The world's most glamorous city-state — Monte-Carlo Casino, the Palace, Port Hercule superyachts and the Grand Prix circuit all compressed into 2km². The Formula 1 barriers are still visible year-round.

The Baroque old town of Nice — ochre and terracotta buildings, narrow carruggi lanes, the Cours Saleya flower and food market, and the best socca (chickpea pancake) in France.

A perfectly preserved medieval village perched 427m above the sea on a needle of rock between Nice and Monaco — the panoramic views of the Côte d'Azur from the summit are astonishing.

The tender landing village itself — a pastel-painted fishing harbour with a medieval citadel, one of the deepest natural harbours on the Mediterranean, and a shingle beach directly below the Old Town.

The most authentic Niçoise cooking in Nice — Dominique Le Stanc's tiny 24-seat restaurant serves stockfish, daube, and pasta with pistou exactly as they were eaten a century ago. No credit cards, no phone, no reservations.

The most famous socca (chickpea pancake) stall in France — griddle-baked to order, cut into wedges, eaten standing with black pepper. A Nice institution since 1946.

Lunch at this private beach club on Cap Ferrat is the quintessential Riviera experience — grilled fresh fish, rosé from Bandol, and the Mediterranean lapping 3 metres from your sunbed.

Terrace restaurant on the Cours Saleya with market views — the salade niçoise here is made with raw tuna (not canned), haricots verts and proper anchovies, as it should be.

The legendary Monaco waterfront bar-restaurant on Port Hercule — walls covered in F1 memorabilia, burgers named after Grand Prix winners, view of the superyachts.

Jazz bar in the heart of Vieux-Nice — regular live jazz from 8pm, small tables, excellent natural wines and Provençal rosé.

Beach bar on the Promenade des Anglais — the stretch of Riviera seafront with legendary afternoon light, pebble beaches and Europe's most famous coastal boulevard.

The bar inside the legendary Hôtel de Paris overlooking the Casino — Churchill's favourite table in the corner is still reserved. The most glamorous drink of your life, realistically.

Vieux-Nice's finest pastry shop — the tarte tropézienne, tourte de blettes (Swiss chard and pine nut tart) and fougasse à l'huile are all Niçoise classics.

Nice's famous oyster and seafood bar on Place Garibaldi — open since 1908, serving Belon oysters, sea urchins and Brittany langoustines at marble-topped counters.

The pebble beach directly below the tender landing in Villefranche — calm, sheltered, crystal-clear Mediterranean water and the best view of the anchored ships from shore.

The most famous motor racing circuit in the world is simply the public streets of Monaco — walk the Tunnel exit, the Casino hairpin and the Swimming Pool chicane at your own pace for free.

The most exclusive peninsula on the Côte d'Azur — a 10km coastal footpath circles the entire headland through pine forest, past private villas and above coves with turquoise water.

Beatrice de Rothschild's extraordinary Belle Époque pink palace — nine themed gardens on a narrow peninsula between two bays, and an Impressionist art collection inside.

Antibes' walled old town contains the Picasso Museum (the artist lived here 1946), the Marché Provençal (Tue–Sun morning) and the finest rampart walk on the Riviera — above the sea, below the mistral pines.

The world's perfume capital — three major houses (Fragonard, Molinard, Galimard) offer free factory tours showing how jasmine, rose and lavender from the surrounding fields become the world's finest fragrances.